Hartley Goldstein treats Rare Weaves, his collection of often one-off pieces made from obscure Japanese boro fabrics, more like an art project than a young menswear label. Partly because the materials are so hard to find he usually runs out once he makes a piece, and partly because of the intricate handiwork and construction. Each patchwork oxford shirt, chore coat, and pair of wide-legged pants is made by a small team of quiltmakers by trade, experts in Frankensteining together odd pieces of cloth into a beautiful gestalt, but not so much experienced in making clothes.
That isn’t to say the clothes are cut bad or have any less merit if anything, the honesty of the construction gives each piece more integrity. There’s a certain grittiness to seeing the wabi-sabi stitching in a garment, after all. For his first retail foray at the recently reopened Carson Street, Rare Waves shot a lookbook titled “The Only Living Boy In New York.”
Photographed by Fred Askew, modeled by New York artist Jerami Goodwin—more commonly known by his tag “STAINO,” and styled by Justin Dean, the lookbook was shot throughout the downtown NYC area Goldstein calls home.
“We imagined the clothes for this shoot evoking the ‘lost’ eclectic 70’s downtown NY of films like Taxi Driver, Midnight Cowboy, and An Unmarried Woman,” says Goldstein. “Growing up in New York City, and living in Soho for almost 15 years, this era holds a sentimental place in my heart, which translates into the clothing.”
Take a look at “The Only Living Boy In New York” lookbook above.
- Writer: Jian DeLeon
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