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18/02/2016

EAST DANE Talks to the Designers Behind New York Fashion Week: Men's

EAST DANE Talks to the Designers Behind New York Fashion Week: Men'sEAST DANE Talks to the Designers Behind New York Fashion Week: Men's
EAST DANE Talks to the Designers Behind New York Fashion Week: Men's
EAST DANE Talks to the Designers Behind New York Fashion Week: Men'sEAST DANE Talks to the Designers Behind New York Fashion Week: Men's

Though just in its second season, New York Fashion Week: Men’s has undoubtedly blossomed into one of the most jam-packed stretches of the fashion world’s calendar — especially for those American designers showcasing their upcoming collections for the very first time. In the midst of the Fall/Winter 2016 shows earlier this month, men’s fashion mainstay EAST DANE caught up with some of NYFWM’s most high-profile designers to get the inside scoop on go-to work outfits, pre-show rituals, seasonal inspiration, post-show celebrations and more. You can catch thoughts from the likes of Billy Reid, Ovadia & Sons, Robert Geller, Timo Weiland and Todd Snyder below and shop select pieces from each label now via eastdane.com.
What’s your go-to work outfit? Will you switch it up for the shows?
Billy Reid: Jeans and a sweatshirt. For the shows, I sometimes mix it up, but it really is an unscripted decision.
Shimon Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons: Black pants or jeans, black T-shirt, cashmere sweater and sneakers (one for every day of the week).
Robert Geller: I don’t distinguish between dressing for work or after work. I want to be comfortable and look good all the time. The show is the same. I need to be on the floor pinning pant legs, but also look decent when I do interviews after the show.
Alan Eckstein of Timo Weiland: My go-to outfit is generally black jeans, Doc Martens, a white T-shirt and a ’50s button-down of some sort. It doesn’t change very much.
Todd Snyder: I like to wear my black oxford shirt paired with worn Japanese selvage denim and desert boots. For shows I like to add either a charcoal chalk stripe sport coat or a black leather jacket.
Do you have any pre-show rituals?
Billy Reid: I like to have a few days alone with the collection in NYC before we begin show preparation, styling, etc.
Shimon Ovadia: Take a few minutes before the show to live in the moment and enjoy it.
Robert Geller: I used to have a drink or two to calm my nerves. I don’t really do that anymore though.
Alan Eckstein: Listen to classical music to calm us down. It helps and puts you in a funny “intellectual” mood. And, coffee… Of course.
Todd Snyder: My team and I all do a shot of whiskey from my flask that I carry.
Can you describe your morning routine? What time do you wake up? How do you get going? Are you a coffee guy?
Billy Reid: I’m an early riser and get up by 6 a.m usually. I like to soak in the tub in the morning, answer emails, read, and drink coffee.
Shimon Ovadia: We both wake up around 5:30 a.m. I’ll pick Ariel up around 6 a.m. and drive into the city from Brooklyn to have breakfast. Coffee in the morning — and through the day. We also like to drink green juice.
Robert Geller: When I am designing I will wake up at 5 and start sketching at home at 5:30. Then I’ll have breakfast with the family and head into work at 9. I meet my assistants at 10 and then we work on the technical drawings. I can’t have coffee until the afternoon. It makes me too crazy.
Alan Eckstein: I generally wake up around 7… I start the day by showering, walking The Coconut (my dog), eat some granola, and listen to Neil Young (a smooth, lovely sounding voice) while I look over emails for the morning stuff. There is coffee in there, too! It’s important.
Todd Snyder: I usually get up at 6… Since I can’t usually sleep the night before. I head to the gym to get my mind off things. After that I head over to Eisendberg’s for eggs and bacon… My fav. I don’t like coffee… Usually just water.
Tell us about the inspiration behind this latest collection. How does it manifest in the clothes?
Billy Reid: Ease and uncomplicated luxury is what we’ve been feeling. Textiles with texture but also with movement and comfort. The palette is super rich with a few pops mixed in with the neutrals our customers respond well to each season.
Shimon Ovadia: A line inbetween traditional Haddish Jewish clothing paired with a modern downtown NYC sesibility. You’ll have to wait and see.
Robert Geller: There is a great German story called Momo by author Michael Ende. It is the struggle of a girl named Momo against the men in grey. They come to town and and convince everyone to give their “extra” time to their time-saving bank. Eventually no one has time for art, recreation, imagination or even sleep. She fights these men and represents the creative spirit and color. She wins.
Alan Eckstein: We don’t have this crazy experience kind of inspiration. What you see each season from us is our take on a modern guy with music references woven in and out. The inspiration is always about what we think is cool or fun to wear. I hope you see some sort of fun when you look at the collection.
Todd Snyder: Fall ’16 is a mix of Icelandic pattern sweaters, techy outwear and wool flannel tailoring.
Are there any styles in your S/S 2016 collection you can’t wait to wear next season?
Billy Reid: The easy cashmere pants and jackets and the mohair cardigan.
Robert Geller: So many. Looking forward to the new Richard pieces and the breezy Pierre shirt. It is always exciting when the pieces come in.
Alan Eckstein: Our pinstripe silk bomber… I’ve had my eyes on that for a while.
Todd Snyder: All of them. I designed the collection while I was on a trip and I really needed some chic styles to update my wardrobe. I am loving the linen shirts and drawstring shorts.
How do you plan on celebrating post show?
Billy Reid: We will head over to our place on Bond Street and have a gathering with close friends and our team.
Shimon Ovadia: We usually go to dinner and have a calm night with friends and family.
Robert Geller: I usually have a dinner with the team and family and then the core goes for drinks and often karaoke.
Alan Eckstein: Being with some loved ones.
Todd Snyder: Anything that includes large amounts of beer and whiskey.
Where do you love to unwind in NYC?
Billy Reid: I love to walk around the city, discover, people watch.
Shimon Ovadia: The Mercer Hotel lobby is a usual spot for us.
Robert Geller: I love going out for dinners. Crazy parties are getting a little too much for me, most of the time. I love Navy in SoHo and Romans in Fort Greene, Brooklyn.
Alan Eckstein: My apartment is my favorite place on earth right now.
Todd Snyder: Ear Inn… My favorite place for a drink.
What are three things you never travel without?
Billy Reid: Headphones, a sketchpad/pencil, and sunglasses.
Shimon Ovadia: Bose noise-cancelling headphones, Yoshida Porter backpack, TUMI all-black luggage, MacBook, crisp white sneakers, running shoes, Ovadia & Sons black jogging pants.
Robert Geller: Laptop, Richard pants, passport.
Alan Eckstein: iPod, dad’s watch, and glasses.
Todd Snyder: My laptop and my Grado Lab headphones. I do everything on it. Design, research, music and movies.
Can you give us one indispensable piece of style advice?
Billy Reid: Quality over quantity.
Shimon Ovadia: Be yourself, don’t try too hard, and don’t become a victim of trends.
Robert Geller: take small steps in figuring out what your style is. Style is so personal that often people will copy what they see in magazines or runway shows and forget about who they are. I always recommend to try new things, just take little steps.
Alan Eckstein: It’s challenging to give advice on style because it really represents something so different to everyone, and I’m not Joan Rivers. But I always think classic with a twist when I look at my closet.
Todd Snyder: No square-toed shoes!!!!

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